The Full Moon is a magical time. The Moon has a special significance in our lives and Chitra Pournami (Full Moon in the Tamil Month of Chithirai) is all the more special for it is only on this day that we have the opportunity to go deep into the Periyar Reserve Forests and visit the Mangaladevi Temple.
5th May 2023 was the Chitra Pournami this year and provided Kumiliites an opportunity to visit the Mangaladevi Temple to seek the Blessings of Goddess Kannaki who is the presiding Deity of the Temple. Worship at the Temple commenced at 5.00 a.m with a priest each from Kerala and Tamil Nadu leading the Pooja.
Since the Temple is located on the borders of Kerala and Tamil Nadu, the administrators of both states had taken extra care this year to ensure that the event was a success and no untoward incident affected the journey of the pilgrims and their worship at the Temple.
While the spiritual experience is exhilarating the journey over rugged terrain is an eye-opener for it exposed the pilgrims to the grandeur of nature and the majesty of the Divine while testing their physical endurance. The trek through the forests is roughly about 15 kilometres and while lakhs of pilgrims went on foot Jeep Taxis were provided at nominal rates for those who found the walk too arduous or did not have lots of time to spare.
Around a thousand Jeep Taxis ferried devotees from Kumily to the Temple and back between 6.00 a.m. to 4.00 p.m. Only four wheel drive vehicles with special permits were allowed to serve as Taxis. The roads were narrow and there were occasional bottle necks which were skillfully controlled and managed by the Police who were deployed in great numbers through the entire route. They were ably assisted by Forest guards and officials who saw to the safety of the pilgrims.
The journey began rather slowly as the jeeps inched forward to the check-post at the entrance to the reserve forest where they were meticulously checked for plastic bottles and other inorganic items by security personnel to ensure that the pristine forests remained unpolluted and unharmed.
The majestic hills and the deep ravines on both sides of the pathway were a sight to behold. In addition there were occasional spurts of excitement among the pilgrims when they chanced to spot a couple of Bisons and what appeared to be an Elephant in the far distance.
Another path which commences at Lower Camp on the Tamil Nadu side was accessed by many pilgrims who climbed the rather steep hill to come directly to the Temple without touching Kumily. From a distance they appeared like small ants as they climbed up and down the steep path to reach the Temple.
Finally the Mangaladevi Temple appeared on the Horizon atop a Hill and the weary spirits of the tired pilgrims are uplifted as they enter the hallowed shrine. The entire temple has been tastefully decorated with palm fronds and flowers of what is known in Malayalam as Kani Konna and Konrai in Tamil which is also known as golden shower or purging cassia, (Botanical name: Cassia Fistula) in English.
The Temple architecture is of an ancient style built with blocks of granite stone being place one upon the other. It is believed that the Chera King Cheran Chenguttuvan who built this temple had requisitioned these blocks of Granite from the Himalayas and brought them all the way here. Makes us wonder how it would have been transported in those days when there were no motorised vehicles to be used.
The temple is very basic and has no Tower as found in the Temples of South India. An idol of Lord Ganapathy is found in the open before entering the main structure. The sanctum Sanctorum for Mangaladevi is a small room where poojas are performed and aarthi displayed and prasad given. This gives the devotees an opportunity to worship the Devi at close quarters. The devotees then proceed to a shrine for Lord Shiva and Parvathi.
Following this the devotees then reach the structure which houses an idol of Kannaki holding the Silambam (anklet) which caused her husband misery. Prasad (Kumkum) is distributed here and green coloured bangles are distributed to all the womenfolk visiting the shrine.
Out in the open we can find many women and their families preparing Pongal and offering it to the Devi as well as sharing it with the devotees. Free packets of food were also being distributed in the Shamiana put up outside the Temple. Ancient inscriptions in Tamil are also found on the stone wall of the Temple.
We can also find a small well surrounded by rocks in the courtyard which is said to have once housed a secret tunnel all the way upto Madurai. It is said that the tunnel used to end in the Temple pond located inside the Madurai Meenakshi Amman Temple. It is also said that an opening into this tunnel is also found at the Lower Camp. This remains a mystery till today and if such a tunnel were really true it will indeed be an engineering marvel even in this technological age.
After worshipping at the temple devoteess can be found strolling around taking in the beauty of the lanscape, unwilling to return back to civilisation for the place has such power to make us wish we could stay here forever. Reality finally wins, and the devotees begin their trek back or board the Jeep taxis for another round of jolting and jarring before they can return to Kumily.
While “Kumily Calling” considers a trip to Managala Devi Temple a great positive experience the only discordant note was the awful stench of diesel fumes and burning clutch plates all along the rocky road from the jeeps which were overloaded and coughing out dark smoke while accelerating along the path.
The temple’s historic significance, the simple yet attractive inner sanctum, and its being situated deep within the Periyar Wildlife Sanctuary make it a great attraction to both devotees and nature lovers.
All said and done, this a pilgrimage that must be embarked upon every year.
